Big Tuesday

SWR report
June 10, 2008

On a foggy Tuesday morning we packed our wet wetsuits and traveled south hoping that the swell we caught yesterday at Huntington Cliffs would be rolling in across the wide span of cobblestoned ocean floor of San O'nofre. We weren't disappointed. While waiting for Joe's friend Chris to show up, Joe and I pondered the overhead size swell that came tumbling in slowly and powerfully. There wasn't much of a crowd and once Chris showed up, with a new barbeque and turkey burgers, we jumped into the biggest waves of our trip so far.

It is always a little tricky to direct your route across a cobblestoned ocean floor, but that is what one must do for a good twenty-five yards until he can paddle towards the break without scraping his board. Once paddling, the surfer times the sets so that he can make it to the outside break without expending too much energy.

I'm just about out of charge here, so I will continue blog tomorrow.

Suffice to say, it was fun today, no matter how much we got beat up out there - and the turkey burgers -mmm, mmm, good!