Going In

SWR report
June 11, 2008

You go in dry - with each quirky step across the cobblestone, sea urchin, seaweed slip - the water and salt slips in. With the water comes a holy spirit and when it is deep enough you throw yourself on the board, chest up and paddle at the lull. The rip helps you out a bit, your head, dry for a minute gets ready for the first small wall of white water - you dip the nose of your long board below the line of white and prop your prone body up so that the onslaught of water rushes between you and waxed board. the water feels warm, much warmer than home - you realize your suit is too heavy for this climate. You paddle a bit more vigorously. Here comes another line of white water and you time your entry and it pushes you back a little, and you paddle a bit harder, now knowing you are almost there and you try to beat the next wave before it turns - I got it, I know I have it, paddle, paddle, paddle - and it is always just perfect, you fly up the face at its peak and drop down the smooth backside as the wave falls beneath you, a sound of collapse - your face and hair is wet - you look around, see the horizon stretch for miles, see the sky blue breaking grey, the cliffs of ivy, the coral trees, the bamboo and spotted colors along the brown sand and back to the lineup - waiting, waiting, waiting