Monday, June 9, 2008

Making our way south

SWR report
June 9, 2008

We left Craig's wonderful family in Ventura surfing perfectly shaped glassy waves of four to six feet and playing rounds of disc golf in the local parks. Check out the plaza scene in Ventura with their Morton Bay Fig trees and San Buenaventura mission. The Silverliner train that woke us in Refugio passes through this town. It passes parallel to the promenade that overlooks the point. The surf was incredible.

We traveled late into LA county. County line was going off - large 6 foot peaks of glass, looming glassy from the kelp beds (unusual for most L A beaches). Joe saw Malibu for the first time, where knee high perfectly shaped waves rolled one after another. the crowd was minimal. Sunset showed the pulse of the swell, but high tide flattened the waves. So on we went to visit Tahm.

Tahm and Sandra welcomed us wholeheartedly and we surfed Sunset, just below Malibu. Glassy 4 foot waves graced us all morning. We had fun with a camera out there, but Tahm and I messed up the controls and we didn't get much on film. Sandy got the wave of the day. I can't fully describe the stay at Tahm's house, because I'd be writing all night. Someday I will. His house is a living extension of himself. Tahm is one of the most creative and inspiring people I know and I felt a sadness leaving his eclectic abode. We'll get back to LA - it's a place worth writing about - check out Joan Didion - she captures the LA area in it's perfect state of both bliss and bewilderment.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

"Play It As It Lays" by Joan Didion set in 1960's Los Angeles. I read a summary on Wikipedia. It's too sad for me. I'll wait for your story, John. Thanks, lisa