SWR report
June 4, 2008

Taking Refuge

One's spirits rise when flying down the deep gorge of Gaviota, past the pea soup signs of Buellton, into that v-shaped neck that points to a blue and blinding sea. The train trussel of ancient woods still connect the pass as 101 sweeps into a large left swirl, suddenly heading south, finally running parallel to the sun-drenched Pacific.

We were early at Refugio, a startling cove that at one time in the early 1800's, gave refuge to pirates smuggling incense and treasures and exotic foods and crafts from distant countries. This was illegal according to Spain's rule at the time, but the newly found owner of this huge parcel and coastal utopia sought to maverick the government and did well for many years until the Spanish came and raided and razed the land and his homes. The treasure was never found.

Being flat at Refugio we headed south in hopes of surf. News is that gale warnings are due Thursday so we were looking for protected spots.

Off the north end of Isla Vista, resides a bluff of golden sponge grass with a worn dirt path that leads to an old, cement structure at the base of the cliffs. There is a stone chimney and the solid foundation of some sort of house like structure, all built with stone and cement, still surviving at what one can only surmise to have been an endless amount of punishment from great northwestern storms blowing and sending massive waves against its stone walls. And yet, there it stands with two large dead trees forming a triangle above it, with one strong date palm nestled right behind it half way up the bluff. It is covered in beautiful colors of graffiti art and stands like some great worn talisman for those who surf its shores.

And surf we did. We surfed our best surf to date. Joe took out "The Wasp" while I carried "The Rocket" down into nearly perfectly shaped rights off a rocky point. It was a miracle of surf. Kelp beds smoothed the wind's vice across the water, offering three foot slopes of fresh and cold water breaks. We were out alone, in the sun, in the water, for hours, I repeat - alone! with perfect swr waves - all prayers answered.

I can only think how lucky I am and that I wish all my family and friends were here with me - and I suppose in a way you are. Welcome!

Just one more thing about this utopian town of Isla Vista. The bikes - oh my gosh - the bikes are taking over!!! I love it!