Campus Point

SWR report
June 12, 2008

We wake up in San Luis Obispo fresh, but with sand in our hair and always a little more sunburnt than the day before. All night sleeping in the tent trailer I just think of the perfect waves we rode yesterday in Santa Barbara.

You park on the south side of campus and make sure you pay - you don't care about paying because below you, three flights of thick wooden stairs, swish the tides of an emerald green blue wave. They roll into the small bay with the help of a south swell. We hike down the stairs with our boards, determined to go leashless, and begin paddling the quarter mile to the break.

I can't express the beauty of being in the water, the cliffs to our side and paddling a quarter mile out to the break, the only ones out again, wearing our baseball caps, no leashes, and the farther we paddle the bigger the swell becomes, until we reach a very rocky point where the most darling wave of rush and power blue curls and spits until it mellows into a long line of water where you pump and walk and ride, breathing in your whole existence, the trip, the beautiful miracle you are so grateful for. Honor the moments - they come in our lives, like good swells.

More to come.